Transit Window Insulated Covers (Permanent)

I am not going to be using the rear windows of my transit and plan on covering the inside with some sort of wood or shelving. So I need to cover up the windows and insulate them. I used 1/2″ rigid insulation cut to about 1/2″ larger than the actual opening (you’ll see why in a second)

I didn’t take great photos but I can later. But here’s me spray painting the insulation. I plan on being as stealth as possible and having the silver side showing through is a giveaway that someone is living inside, so with some flat black it doesn’t look like anything is there at all. It’s just “nothing”

I crushed the outside 1/2″ of the foam down a bit to make it thinner

This let the board slide up into the factory groove perfectly. I just barely squeezed the whole thing in.

Pausing here, I ran out of daylight for photos. Will update later

Transit floor insulation and flooring

I guess I should start documenting my van build since I’m constantly looking at other people’s builds and youtube videos for tips and tricks. I’ll share how I did my build.

My first modification is the flooring. I started with a passenger wagon so my factory flooring is full of giant holes for the seat rails.

The floor is fully ribbed for strength so the first step is making a level field. I chose to put strips of foam board between the ribs, held down with 3m super 77 spray glue. worked great.

The foam is very slightly taller than the ribs, but that’s probably okay as it’ll compress with the weight of the other flooring and me walking on it.

Next I put a thin layer of fanfold flooring underlayment. It’s cheap and easy to work with, is a vapor barrier and will help even out the ribs some.

Then I used that underlayment to trace out the pattern on some plywood. I used cheap 1/2″ 4 ply, nothing special. But then I primed it with shellac to seal it.

The plywood was fit and then I used the plywood to trace out the next layer. The plywood fit was a bit better as it doesn’t bend or move like the underlayment did. The underlayment had some errors but the plywood can’t. The next layer was some cheap and thin sound deadening flooring underlayment that had a rubbery vapor barrier.

I did the same with the cheapy 12mm engineered hardwood floor. I would have liked to do vinyl planks but this floor is so cheap I figured I’d use it for at least a year or two and see how I like the plank flooring. The underlayment was actually more money than the flooring. I think the fan fold first layer was like $50, the sound deadening layer was $40 on clearance. And the actual “hardwood” cheap floor was like $80 for 3 boxes. heh.

Tracing the plank flooring helped fitment too. I just traced it with a wax crayon marker and cut it out with a jigsaw.

Here’s the plywood all primed and installed

Sound deadening underlayment



And finally the floor.




I covered the wheel arches with the sound deadening underlayment too.

In the end I ended up cutting back the flooring at the rear doors. My initial plan was to bring the floor all the way to the doors and ditch the factory trim there. But thinking of a way to actually face it and protect the edges nicely and then measuring the factory trim, turns out the factory trim is exactly the right height still. The factory flooring is tall, and I guess I added just enough layers to bring it up. I did the same for the sliding door opening. I cut it back for the factory trim. (I’ll get photos later)

That’s about it for the flooring.